Coastal Gems of Hwy 1, Part 1

California Poppies, Devil’s Slide Trail, Pacifica

Today, as we often do on the weekend, my family and I headed down the Pacific Coast Highway to visit some of our favorite spots. Living in the northern part of the San Francisco Peninsula, we have easy access to the coast and beautiful Hwy 1. Leaving home, we headed up and over the hill meeting up with the Pacific Coast Highway in the town of Pacifica. Pacifica is a long thin town that stretches out along the coastal bluffs and beaches of the Pacific Ocean in San Mateo County, just about five miles south of San Francisco.

Mussel Rock Park

Mussel Rock Park is known for the sea stacks that sit right off the coast and are easily visible from the park. These “stacks” were once part of the cliff, but due to erosion they now appear like tiny rock islands a few yards into the surf. The park has a series of trails meandering through the hills with beach access via one of the main trails. Mussel Rock is a favorite spot for paragliding. On one of our hikes in the area we walked up to a launch point and enjoyed watching the gliders preparing to take off: waiting for just the right breeze. Then they sailed around the sky like jellyfish in the sea. We also ran into a coyote. After contemplating for a moment, he quickly got as far away from us as possible. 

This area is geologically fascinating as it is the point at which the San Andreas Fault crosses from land into the Pacific. Known for its many landslides one must be careful while walking close to the edge of the cliff. I would also be leery about stretching out for a beach snooze below the cliff.  During low tide one could walk north on this stretch of beach, past Thorton Beach and all the way to San Francisco’s Fort Funston, one of the Peninsula’s most famous hangliding areas and where dogs are allowed to run off leash. 

Thornton Beach holds many fond childhood memories for me. I  spent countless days playing in the sand and chilly surf with my mother and siblings. How many times have I repeated to my own children my mother’s montra, “Never turn your back on a wave.” Today it is a bit of a hike to get to Thornton Beach because in 1982 a massive landslide wiped out the road and parking lot that allowed easy access to the beach. Today you can hike from Mussel Rock along the shoreline or drive to the Thornton Beach overlook parking area in Daly City.

My mother and I at the Thornton Beach Overlook, Daly City

Sharp Park Beach and Mori Point

One of our favorite “Go To” spots is just south of Mussel Rock Park and right over the hill from our home. If you want a chance to see whales without getting seasick, Sharp Park Beach is the place to go. Sharp Park is the place I first saw whales swimming close to shore. The trail along the beach is a wide hard packed dirt trail, good for bicyclists and hikers of all ages. It is a flat walk that parallels the shoreline with spectacular views of the ocean, surrounding cliffs, and coastal mountains. From the Pacifica Pier it is a short one mile hike to Mori Point, a beautiful overlook that is part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area. Here it is not uncommon to see whales, spouting and spyhopping (coming straight out of the water nose to the sky)  while you are walking the Path at Sharp Park Beach. 

One weekend a few years back, when the whales were migrating, my husband and I sat on top of Mori Point. My husband will tell you that it is 189 steps to the top of the point from the Sharp Park Trail. While watching the whales as they occasionally surfaced for food, just below us at the base of the point, one whale breached exposing its entire length to us. It was  one of those moments that I will never forget. On a separate occasion, while walking with my mother on the pier, we happily watched as two whales casually swam past just feet from the pier’s pilings. This trail is popular with the locals, and is the first place we take my husband’s family members when they visit from Iowa. 

My family walking at Sharp Park, Pacifica

Devil’s Slide Trail

Devil’s Slide Trail, once part of Hwy 1, is named due to the rocky cliffs prone to eroding and the windy road that was prone to accidents. Crashing waves, and strong winds have worn away these cliffs, causing landslides, causing road closures and causing havoc for locals and their commute. Driving this strip of highway was always a thrill, with cliffs rising on one side and dropping steeply away to the ocean on the other. The road has sharp curves and a steep grade. The section of highway known as Devil’s Slide is rugged and extremely picturesque. 

The Tom Lantos Tunnel, opened in 2013 and named for the local long term US Senator, now bypasses Devil Slide. The once highway is now a hiking and biking trail. As plans for the tunnel were being discussed, I remember thinking how sad it would be that I would no longer be able to see that lovely strip of Hwy 1 known as Devil’s Slide. Imagine my elation when I learned that I would be able to wander this gorgeous area on foot, taking my time to soak in the beauty of this area. The trail is a paved road that winds up and down the coast’s edge for 1.3 miles. The views are breathtaking: jagged cliffs, crashing waves, and unreachable sandy coves. If you enjoy wildflowers or birds this is a great place for a walk. There is parking on the north and south ends of the tunnel.

View from Devil’s Slide Trail, Pacifica

Pacifica

The city of Pacifica has many beaches that attract surfers from far and wide. Even on the coldest overcast days, when the sands are left empty for the Sanderlings, Caspian Terns and Snowy plovers, surfers can be seen sitting patiently on their boards waiting for the perfect wave.

If you want to warm up with some coffee and grab a delicious bite to eat you can stop at Soul Grind Coffee Roasters in the Linda Mar area of Pacifica. Soul Grind is the first coffee roastery in Pacifica. They have an original menu of breakfast and lunch foods along with wonderful baked goods. My favorite is the mixed berry tart. Soul Grind has a relaxed vibe that mimics the vibe one expects to get from those who surf the waters of Pacifica.

These spots in Pacifica along Pacific Coast Highway are just a few of my favorite places. As you drive further south, you will find more delightful beaches, trails and towns. The most important thing to remember when taking a drive down the coast is to stop, look and take it all in.