Coastal Gems of Hwy 1, Part 2

October 16,  2022

View from Montara Mountain

I am forever grateful that I can head over the hill from my house and in twelve minutes be gazing out across the vast blue of the Pacific Ocean. As I crest the hill, some days are clear enough for me to see the Farallon Islands, 30 miles off the coast of San Francisco. On other days, from above, the fog is so thick I cannot see the coastline that is a few hundred feet below me. No matter the weather, a trip down the Pacific Coast Highway is one of my favorite ways to spend a day.

Gray Whale Cove State Beach

Just past Devil’s Slide Trail and the Tom Lantos Tunnel on The Pacific Coast Highway are a few spots that have fantastic views and space to wander. Gray Whale Cove State Beach, once known as the “clothing optional” beach, is an 800 foot strip of beach that is surrounded by tall cliffs and only accessible by the steep trail and long staircase. The beach has golden sand and areas where the large rocks dribble into the surf. It is a lovely spot to spend the day or go for a walk along the shore. 

Gray Whale Cove Trail

On the east side of the highway the coastal mountains rise straight up from the road. There are numerous trails one can hike that provide gorgeous views of beaches, ocean and coastline. The parking lot has access for the trailhead to Gray Whale Cove Trail, a short 2.2 mile out and back trail that winds and curves its way 100 feet above Highway one. 

Montara Mountain

This is also one of the jumping off points for the trail to the top of Montara Mountain, the tallest peak in the area that rises 1900 feet above sea level. This hike gains 1758 feet in elevation over about  5 miles. Most of the trail is wide and used by bicyclists and hikers alike. The hike has steep areas and very steep areas, it is open and completely exposed to the sun, but the views on the way up and at the top are well worth the bit of sweat it takes to get there. This is the only place I have stood where I could see the ocean beyond the Farallon Islands, which if you spent your life looking out at the ocean hoping to catch a glimpse of the islands on the horizon, it is quite a treat to see the horizon beyond the islands.

There are other ways to reach Montara Mountain. The one that  provides switch backs and shade for portions of the trail starts in Pacifica at San Pedro Valley Park, a member of the San Mateo County Parks system. The first part of this 6.7 mile loop trail has the cover of some common native trees: Coastal Live Oak, California Bay Laurel, Douglas Fir, and Monterey Pine just to name a few. While in the park you will have occasional views of the ocean; once out of the park you will meet up with the trail that leads from Hwy 1. At that point you will have the expansive views of the ocean. I have hiked both trails to the top, the trail from the coast has amazing views of the ocean for its entirety, the one from San Pedro Park has the benefit of the trees and a hike through multiple ecosystems. 

View from Montara Mountain, Pacifica to Point Reyes National Seashore

Montara Beach

Just south of the Gray Whale Cove area is the stretch of Montara Beach. This beach is one of my son’s favorites because of the sand. It is gold in color with grains that are a “perfect size”: not too small to feel like dirt and not too large to feel like rocks. Montara beach is a wide beach that stretches about 0.8  mile. It is a popular beach for surfers, but I would not recommend it for novices. There is parking on the north end of the beach; the access stairs have washed away at the bottom, but there is a path that takes you around and down to the creek. You can cross the creek easily and then it is just a few yards to the sandy beach. In the south there is a smaller parking area with cement stairs that will take you all the way to the perfect golden sand.

Both Gray Whale Cove and Montara Beach are perfect for a lazy day in the sun, a picnic, a football toss or my favorite activity, a book read and a nap. On a sunny day or an overcast day, they are also both great spots for a stroll along the shoreline.